Process for making patterned effects on crepe fabrics and products therefrom



Patented June 21, 1938 PROCESS FOR MAKING PATTERNED EF- FECTS N CREPEFABRICS AND PROD- UCTS THEREFROM George Heberlein, Jun., Wattwil,Switzerland,

The C p fabric referred to in a C DBHd has a preliminary crepe effect.is stretched to pp cat on s usually made by weaving yarns. the originalgrey width and then treated with all or a part of which are highlytwisted. and the binding material and then finally creped. e su j theseyarns o hot soap, caustic Because of the different dyeing properties ofthe solution or other bath to produce the well-known portions treatedwith the reserve or binder as curly or crimped effect characteristic ofcrepe. compared with the untreated portions, various The pr n ip lobject f he present v dyed color effects can be obtained. In additionion is o pr vi e a pr s fo producing m r dyestuffs can be added to thbinder before printpatterned effects on crepe fabric in a different ing,on th othe hand, where a, dyed fabric manner. is to be treated, adischarge may be added to The vent n p s s t novel p d as the binder tobe printed thereon. Besides yarns well as the n v l pr ses a steps fprocesses of vegetable fiber such as cotton and linen, the according twhich Such Products are manufacvarious artificial silks of regeneratedcellulose tured, the specific embodiments of which are deand animalfibers, for instance highly twisted scribed hereinafter by way ofexample and in fine wool and silk yarns, may be subjected to accordancewith which we now prefer to practhe process.

tice the invention. The following are examples of the process em- It hasnow been found in accordance with the ploying th steps in the manner inwhich it is present inVentiOn that patterned effects 0 C epe nowpreferred to practice the invention. These fa r s can be DIOdUCBd ytreating C p fa examples are purely illustrative and are not to be ricat some time prior to its final shrinkage with construed i 1im1t1 en abinder to produce a pattern design capable of Exam le 1 resisting thesubsequent wet treatment to which p such fabrics are subjected, such ascreping and A georgette fabric of viscose silk containing bleachingbaths. Then upon subjecting the fabhighly twisted threads as it comesfrom the loom 40 ric to a creping treatment, the portions of the readyto be subjected to treatment to produce the fabric untreated with thebinder produce the crepe effect, is printed in a pattern with a 10%crepe effect, and the portions treated with the water solution ofgelatin heated to C. The binder do not crepe appreciably. The effect ofprinted fabric is then dried. Thereafter the the binder is to renderthese portions more transfabric is passed through a 2% formaldehyde so-45 lucent than the crepe portions under ordinary lution and is dried atas high a temperature as conditions. The preferred binder is an animalpossible without injury to the material. After protein substance, suchas albumin, animal glue this treatment, the printed, fabric is subjectedto or gelatin. This material is preferably applied a crepe effectingtreatment, as by placing it in in a water solution and is thereaftermade water a hot soap bath at about 80 C. in the usual maninsoluble andresistant to the wet treatments of ner for creping, and a crepe effectis produced.

assignor to Heberlein Patent Corporation, New York, -N. Y., acorporation of New York No Drawing. Application June 19, 1934, Serial 9Claims.

This invention relates to a process for producing patterned effects oncrepe fabrics and to patterned fabrics obtained thereby. In thecopending application Serial No. 716,430, filed March 19, 1934, whichhas now issued as Patent No. 2,085.946, there is described a process forthe production of patterned effects on crepe fabrics, according to whicha crepe fabric is treated with a parchmentizing agent at some time priorto its final shrinkage to produce a pattern design and then the sotreated fabric is treated by a creping bath. This resulted in a crepefabric having a crepe background with translucent pattern portionsthereon, or vice versa.

the creping process by treatment with a hardening agent, such as bycoagulation by heating, or tanning as by chromium salts, aluminumcompounds, formaldehyde and formaldehyde compounds. Instead of theinsolubilized substances In Germany June 22, 1933 just mentioned, theremay be also employed natural or artificial prepared resin suitable forresisting the operations of the creping' process above mentioned andthere may also be employed cellulose esters and cellulose regeneratedfrom viscose or copper-oxide-ammonium solutions.

The fabrics employed according to this invention may be grey (rohe), aswell as pretreated fabrics. In the case of thepretreated fabrics whichare the most important in commercial use, these fabrics are treated in amanner similar to that described in the above mentioned application Ser.No. 716,430. That is, the previously shrunk fabric in crepe condition.which Thereupon the portions untreated with the insolubilized gelatinbinder will crepe, while the portions treated with the insolubilizedgelatin binder will remain substantially uncreped. Thereafter. if thefabric treated is held loose while drying, the shrunk creped portions ofthe fabric will cause the binder treated portions to become somewhatpuffed with wave-like elevations and corresponding hollows. The portionstreated with the insolubilized gelatin will also appear more translucentand will be stiffer than the untreated portions. The material producedis a crepe fabric having a patterned effect thereon made up of a crepebackground with a translucent somewhat stiff design thereon or viceversa, the translucent portion containing insolubilized binder.

Example 2 As mentioned above, fabrics which are already in crepecondition may also be employed to produce new patterned effects. Acotton fabric for creping is bleached in the usual manner. Greatshrinking thereby takes place and the crepe effect is produced on thefabric. -While the fabric is drying and still in moist state, it is putunder tension along its width and length so that it assumessubstantially its original size before creping. It is then printed withan 8% acetyl cellulose solution and dried. Thereafter the fabric sotreated is passed through a hot soap creping-bath, from which it isremoved and dried without tension. The effect produced is similar tothat given in Example 1 above.

While the invention has been described in detail according to thepreferred manner of carrying out the process, it will be obvious tothose skilled in the art after understanding the invention, that changesand modifications may be made therein without departing from the spiritor scope of the invention, and it is intended in the appended claims tocover all such changes and modifications.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics, whichcomprises treating a crepe fabric containing highly twisted yarn whichwill shrink in the creping operation, at some time prior to its finalshrinkage, to provide areas which are covered with a substantiallyinsoluble binder, which areas are capable of resisting wet treatments ofthe usual crep-.

ing operation, and then subjecting the fabric to creping treatment,causing the portions of the fabric untreated with the binder to crepe,and leaving the treated portions substantially uncreped and permanentlycovered with the substantially insoluble binder.

2. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics, whichcomprises applying a crepe fabric at some time prior 'to its finalshrinkage with a binder consisting of an animal protein such as gelatinto produce a pattern design, insolubilizing the pattern design so thatit will resist wet treatment of the usual creping operation, and thensubjecting the fabric to a creping treatment and thereby causing theportions of the fabric untreated with the binder to crepe, leaving thetreated portions still containing the binder substantially uncreped.

3. A crepe fabric having a patterned effect thereon made up of a crepebackground having shrunk highly twisted threads with a translucentsomewhat stiff design thereon, the translucent portion containingunshrunk highly twisted threads and a binder. 4. A crepe fabric having apatterned effect thereon made up of a crepe design having shrunk highlytwisted threads therein with a translucent somewhat stiff backgroundwith. the translucent background containing unshrunk highly twistedthreads and a binder.

5. A process according to claim 2 in which the gelatin is insolubilizedby treatment with formaldehyde.

6. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics whichcomprises applying to a crepe fabric at sometime prior to its finalshrinkage a binder which is soluble to some extent in the ordinaryshrinking bath for the crepe effect thereby forming a pattern on thefabric, insolublizing the pattern design so that it will resist theaction of said bath, and then subjecting the fabric to a crepingtreatment and thereby causing the portions of the fabric untreated withthe binder to crepe, leaving the treated port-ion substantially uncrepedand permanently covered with the substantially insoluble binder.

7. A process according to claim 1, in which the binder is a resin.

8. A crepe fabric having a crepe area and a stiffened area, thestiffened area containing unshrunk, highly twisted threads and aWaterinsoluble binder.

9. A process according to claim 1. in which the binder is applied as asolution of a cellulose

